Archive for December, 2012

Ruined Farm – Pedrógão, Portugal

Posted: December 31, 2012 in Portugal

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This is, once again, petty urban exploration, and for that I apologize. But I didn’t want to miss the chance of sharing my found and besides, this blog also has a function of personal catalog, so…..

I bumped into this place by sheer accident. I was on the move, during a Geocaching trip, heading to the nearby town of Moura. My navigation GPS pointed me in this direction, as a way around the village, and suddenly I saw it. I just stepped on the breaks! What a hell! I had to check it out! Parked the car by the side of the road, half blocking the lane (it wasn’t a busy road, but I saw a few cars passing while I was exploring) and walked in.

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The place is open wide, so there are no specific instructions on how to get access to the ruins. Now, be aware, the whole area is surrounded by gypsies huts so keep an eye open. Usually that will not be a problem unless your provoke any of them. Then you do have a problem. When I visited I saw a group of young girls staring at me, at a considerable distance, and that was all.

The place stimulated in me the kind of curiosity we all know… what happened there? What kind of people lived in the farm? How was their daily lives? Were they educated? To which level?

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Obviously these farmers were well above average in terms of financial condition and education. The house was more than a typical farmers house. You can say by the painted walls in what I believe used to be the lounge, and by the once fancy bedroom, on the first floor. Then you have the straw bedding all over the place and you think… who the hell did this? Apparently, after the final moments of the wealthy family, someone used the whole building to host livestock. The gypsies? I don’t think so, it doesn’t sound their thing. A neighbor? Perhaps. I will never know.

There is a spacious patio in which you will notice a nice feature: part of the inner wall of the main house was built making use of a large boulder, as it’s usual in some parts of Portugal, but not that much in this region.

So, this will be all. Coordinates? Here: N 38 06.914, W 7 38.718

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This was the best urbex site I ever visited. Not that I visited a lot, I know there are plenty of truly spectacular spots out there but I cant reach them, so I have to talk out of my own experience. And accordingly to it, this is the most impressive!

Elvas is a town within walls. Actually, it was classified as UNESCO site this year under the title Garrison Border Town of Elvas and its Fortifications. And it was the chosen place to spend my birthday in 2012. The weather wasn’t promising, but I really wanted to get out of my usual routine in this day. So we spent a few days with friends in Évora (another UNESCO site, geez, this small country most be the one with higher ratio of UNESCO sites per area). And it was from there that we left for this expedition. Elvas is about 90 km from Évora, good road, easy trip. Although there is much to see and do in Elvas, we took Forte da Graça first. For a single reason: weather forecast was “promising” rain in a couple of hours and this isolated fort was the major attraction for the day, so I wanted to explore it with perfect weather conditions. The light was great, with a dark sky offering a powerful dramatic touch to any picture I would take up there.

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Getting there was a piece of cake. I was on the spot a few years ago, but by then it wasn’t possible to enter the core of the fort. And I mean, a proper fort is not a place you can trespass, not without climbing skills and equipment (neither of which I possess). But I was told that nowadays the main gate is wide open. Well, it is true. I found the main gate as promised… and a police car parked just in front of it, with two officers sitting inside. I thought to myself: “Well, I am not going to pay a fine and definitely not going to spend my birthday in jail if I just walk in”. I believe in these situations a relaxing atitude is the key for success. So we got out of our car, picked the Nikon D90 from the back seat, put my rucksack on and started waling towards the gate, expecting to hear something any moment. But they just stayed there. And, as I noticed shortly after I entered the outer ring of the fort, they left for good.

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A bit of History now. Elvas, being a border town for centuries, saw plenty of action. It was involved in endless wars between Portugal and Spain, and even in the conflict with France, when Napoleon invaded – the only occasion in which Portugal was invaded since its foundation, back in the 12th Century. It’s not surprise then, that the whole region is packed with medieval castles and modern fortresses, especially from the 17th Century, when the longest war against Spain took place.

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It was during that conflict (Restoration War 1641-1668) that the Spaniards set siege on Elvas, and occupied Graça hill, with dramatic consequences for the Portuguese. A century later, another war, the same happenings. Spanish going up Graça hill, unleashing hell to the Portuguese down in Elvas. So we thought “enough is enough”. In 1763 – a year after the mentioned event – the works for the building of a new fortress in Graça hill started. It was finished in 1794 and initially named after the man who reorganized the Portuguese Army and proposed its construction: Count of Lippe.

In 1801 the last war against Spain took place, and the enemy was kept away due to the newly built fort. Ten years later, the French also failed to take the fort (poor general Soult).

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In the last decades the fort was used as a military prison but it’s currently abandoned. he city of Elvas will eventually take over and requalify the structure (I can’t imagine with which money, considered the size of the fort) but the process is still going one.

Ok, enough of chitchat. Let the images talk!

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No need for coordinates for this one. It’s pretty obvious, Google it, Google Earth around Elvas, ask in the town for directions, whatever.